Glue back GPU plastic cover?
I took my 3080 GPU out to sell, but didn't realise the plastic covering over the unit had come away from one corner where light comes through.

I need to find a way of gluing it back so that it stays put with heat, but also doesn't show through with the lighting behind it. See photos for images of issue.

Anyone have any advice on types of glue to use? It is plastic on plastic, as you can see from photos I'm not gluing any electronics.

Photos of GPU installed in case and out of case

https://ibb.co/DHgZ7Z69
Last edited by Nomadski; 2 Jul @ 8:39am
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Showing 1-14 of 14 comments
Monk 2 Jul @ 9:58am 
Just run some super glue around the edges.
_I_ 2 Jul @ 11:36am 
just fold its tab back in place, it may not have had any glue to begin with
Nomadski 2 Jul @ 11:47am 
Originally posted by _I_:
just fold its tab back in place, it may not have had any glue to begin with

There isn't a way to fix it back in place. It just flops open.


Originally posted by Monk:
Just run some super glue around the edges.

I guess I'm asking what kind of super glue people would recommend. I don't want it showing through once its plugged back in and lit up, nor coming away under high temps.
_I_ 2 Jul @ 12:01pm 
Originally posted by Nomadski:
Originally posted by _I_:
just fold its tab back in place, it may not have had any glue to begin with

There isn't a way to fix it back in place. It just flops open.


did you bend it far enough to deform it?

any kind of super glue will work, the layer will be thin enough not to filter the led coloring
Last edited by _I_; 2 Jul @ 12:01pm
Monk 2 Jul @ 12:04pm 
Temps aren't high enough to cause an issue, keep the super glue to the very edge or only on the black area and it should be fine, if it shows, well, it's facing down and will look better than it does currently.

Edit.
Besides, you are selling it, not your problem :)
Last edited by Monk; 2 Jul @ 12:04pm
Super glue will not glue polypropylene plastic.

Super glue (cyanoacrylate) doesn't effectively bond polypropylene due to the plastic's low surface energy and chemical resistance. Polypropylene's smooth, non-polar surface and chemical makeup prevent strong adhesion with standard super glues. Specialized glues and surface treatments are needed for reliable bonding of polypropylene.
Here's a more detailed explanation:

Low Surface Energy:
Polypropylene, like polyethylene, has a very low surface energy. This means the molecules on its surface are not very attractive to other substances, including adhesives.

Chemical Resistance:
Polypropylene is also chemically resistant, meaning its surface doesn't readily form strong bonds with most adhesives.
Super Glue Limitations:
Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is designed to work best on materials with higher surface energy and where it can form strong intermolecular bonds. It doesn't readily penetrate or adhere to polypropylene's smooth, non-polar surface.
Need for Specialized Adhesives:
To effectively bond polypropylene, you need adhesives specifically designed for this purpose, often with surface preparation techniques.
Surface Preparation:
Roughening the surface with sandpaper or using a primer (like an activator) can help improve adhesion by increasing surface area and creating a more receptive surface for the adhesive.
Specialty Glues:
Adhesives like Loctite Plastics Bonding System, which includes an activator, are designed to overcome the challenges of bonding polypropylene.
Originally posted by ↑↑↓↓←→←→BASelect:
Super glue will not glue polypropylene plastic.

Super glue (cyanoacrylate) doesn't effectively bond polypropylene due to the plastic's low surface energy and chemical resistance. Polypropylene's smooth, non-polar surface and chemical makeup prevent strong adhesion with standard super glues. Specialized glues and surface treatments are needed for reliable bonding of polypropylene.
Here's a more detailed explanation:

Low Surface Energy:
Polypropylene, like polyethylene, has a very low surface energy. This means the molecules on its surface are not very attractive to other substances, including adhesives.

Chemical Resistance:
Polypropylene is also chemically resistant, meaning its surface doesn't readily form strong bonds with most adhesives.
Super Glue Limitations:
Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is designed to work best on materials with higher surface energy and where it can form strong intermolecular bonds. It doesn't readily penetrate or adhere to polypropylene's smooth, non-polar surface.
Need for Specialized Adhesives:
To effectively bond polypropylene, you need adhesives specifically designed for this purpose, often with surface preparation techniques.
Surface Preparation:
Roughening the surface with sandpaper or using a primer (like an activator) can help improve adhesion by increasing surface area and creating a more receptive surface for the adhesive.
Specialty Glues:
Adhesives like Loctite Plastics Bonding System, which includes an activator, are designed to overcome the challenges of bonding polypropylene.


Thanks for the detailed answer.

So something like this should do the trick?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-All-Plastics-Glue/dp/B002SPBX9W/ref=asc_df_B002SPBX9W?mcid=86912875ad3f31c589021e5ef51bc9d2&hvocijid=16573334243804150028-B002SPBX9W-&hvexpln=74&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696285193871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16573334243804150028&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046619&hvtargid=pla-2281435176938&psc=1&gad_source=1




Originally posted by Monk:
Temps aren't high enough to cause an issue, keep the super glue to the very edge or only on the black area and it should be fine, if it shows, well, it's facing down and will look better than it does currently.

Edit.
Besides, you are selling it, not your problem :)

I want it not to be noticeable at all for the buyer, if I can fix it for good then I'm happier to sell it.



Originally posted by _I_:
Originally posted by Nomadski:

There isn't a way to fix it back in place. It just flops open.


did you bend it far enough to deform it?

any kind of super glue will work, the layer will be thin enough not to filter the led coloring


I haven't bent it at all. In the photo where I'm lifting it I'm not putting any strain on it at all.
I see your pictures...
Can you link your actual GPU model
Last edited by Bad 💀 Motha; 2 Jul @ 5:17pm
There are screws there that may require access at some point in future, double sided tape or such may be better.
You can buy what's called "Double sided thermal tape" and apply that under the cover where needed. Looks like that was there but the sticky part might have worn out from heat. Must be a bottom of the barrel kind of GPU. Every GPU I've had everything screws down into place and no way anything could come apart like that unless the GPU was dropped maybe.
Nomadski 2 Jul @ 10:38pm 
Originally posted by Bad 💀 Motha:
I see your pictures...
Can you link your actual GPU model


Gigabyte Aorus 3080 Master 10G rev 1
Nomadski 2 Jul @ 10:39pm 
Originally posted by Bad 💀 Motha:
You can buy what's called "Double sided thermal tape" and apply that under the cover where needed. Looks like that was there but the sticky part might have worn out from heat. Must be a bottom of the barrel kind of GPU. Every GPU I've had everything screws down into place and no way anything could come apart like that unless the GPU was dropped maybe.

Yeah I’ve never experienced this before with a GPU, and this was the first Gigabyte product I ever bought…

Never been dropped. Just popped into its PCI express slot for a few years. Never even overclocked manually.
Last edited by Nomadski; 2 Jul @ 10:44pm
Plastic cement might be a better option.
cold shrinks most, heat expands. have screws to set small double sided tape within and an side edge
closer inspection beneath the plate should show tell tale signs of where originally it was placed.

So how? not gonna make a dimple beneath to snap into the top.
Last edited by SAY; 2 Jul @ 11:04pm
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