Now my guide on engines already goes over cooling (section 2 of simple stuff to help your engine just before transmissions. https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2733574790&searchtext=c4v but i'll be going into more detail on it.

Here is the section from the guide

“So you might have run into some problems along the way to making your engine aka cooling. Some people say it's broken and others say it works perfectly fine and it is. If you say it's broken then you're broken. Le skill issue. Doesn't matter if it's a diesel or a steam engine, everything needs cooling. So let's begin.

First thing first, always use 3x3 or 5x5 Erads or electric radiators. These are the best ways to cool your engine.

Step two, Lower your god forsaken rps. in my book 5 rps - 20 rps is the best for any engine. 25 is pushing it but it still can be done. If you complain that cooling is broken and run your engine at 40 rps then leave.

Step three, High flow rate. One of my steam engines has around 80l/s so a high flow rate is possible. Higher the flow rate better cooling you have. Now in theory you want low flow rate so your engine stays cold but SW says no on that.

Step four, add some other forms of cooling. Rads may be good but some air to liquid is nice if you're in the arctic or liquid to liquid and use some nice cold sea water so you don't damage your engine.

Step five. Check everything before complaining. Don't complain when your engine is still running at 40 rps and has no pumps.”

Ok so let's get into more detail on it all.

This is how i'll be going over it all

Basic cooling
Efficient cooling
Cooling for other engines
Things to know
Misconceptions
Final word

A basic cooling system is just a rad and some pipes. Let's take the small engine as an example. When making a basic cooling system add 1 straight pipe to both cooling in and cooling out then add a basic 3x3 rad. There, basic cooling. Not the best but it's not the worst.

Ways to improve it is by using a 3x3 Erad and a L-L exchanger but you only really need that when your doing something dumb with it.

Now if you do have a larger cooling system you might want to monitor your flow rate. In SW higher flow rate = better cooling. So if your flow rate is low you might want to add some pumps but if your pipes are short then you don't really have to worry. Now modular engine manifolds do need a pump so keep that in mind.

Ok so let's go over efficient cooling. Now i'll be going over mod engine cooling sense that's where efficient engine cooling pops up the most. Yes you can make a prefab engine have efficient cooling but you really need that much for a prefab. So let's get into it.

So i'm going to go over 1x1 cooling then a 3x3/5x5 sense the way i cool a 5x5 is the same as a 3x3.

So the way I cool a 1x1 is by having a rad and an impeller pump with the transmission hooked up. I use 1x1 for trucks. The transmission is usually right next to the cooling so I can hook it up easily. How it's done is by having a cooling manifold on a cylinder then having an impeller right on it. Make sure your impeller is flipped around the right way. On the other side of the cooling manifold add a pipe angle the same way around as the impeller. Next add your 3x3 Erad. and you're done. If you want to see where this is used, just check out some of my trucks.

Next is 3x3. So I usually make inline engines aka the cylinders on top of the crank. Ok so on the sides of the cylinders add a cooling manifold. Next add an angle pipe going down on both sides of the cooling manifold. Add a pump pumping down and up. Next add another corner pipe going out of the engines. Then add your rad.

Video on how i do it sense i'm bad at explaining
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZ5-D4__tZE

Also adding more cooling manifolds also make cooling better but there is a limit on how many you can add so 1-2 is the best to add. thanks to TurkeyBoy55 for reminding me.

So what do I mean by other engines? Well I'm really talking about reactors and fireboxes and how to keep them cool. Yes fireboxes need or well it's recommended they stay cool. Alright let's begin.

In my guide on engines I went over how to keep them cool. Put your control rods 3 blocks up to be inline with your fuel rods. After that, place down a function. Rod temp as X and output to your control rods. Do x/1000 (or what temp you want your reactor at). Reactors melt down at 1,500c so keep that in mind. Also control rods can maintain the temp of a reactor at 4-5 fuel rods. Oh and putting fuel rods next to each other makes then heat up faster.

Ok lets go over fireboxes. Yes fireboxes don't need cooling but it helps the condenser and how much coal you have. So what's the benefit of running your firebox at 100-150c. Well your condenser (these dont work. just use radiators) has a esiser time cooling the steam and the amount of coal you use will drop. So you could cut the amount of coal you have on your boat or train. The way you do it is by cutting the air to the firebox. If you know me you'll know my next word. Pids are how we do this. Maybe I should make a guide on pids some day. Ehh, someone else has already done it. Ok so set your setpoint to 150 and process the variable to your firebox temp. Next set your pid to 0.5, 0.000001, 0.1. Ok on your air add a variable valve. Hook the pid to that valve and you're good. Oh and of course turn it on.

condensers straight from my guide on engines

so condensers dont really work as far as i can see but you can use other formed and condensers aren't the only thing you can use. so first you can use rads or radiators. these are nice but they have one down side. they hold water. so if your boiler is at 0% water it will be filled up but i told the devs they should add a slider to the rads for how much water they can hold. now you can also use AA, AL, LL, exchanges which worked very well. i might have to start using these guys more. i always was skeptical about them due to them not worked but i ran those test when they just came out so i might have to rerun my cooling test.

Hey while on the topic of pids, did you know that wikipedia has some fun stuff on pids. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller
Have fun :)

Just some things to know when cooling anything. These are just some things I have heard or actually do so let's get into it.

- Higher flow rate = better cooling.
- The lower your rps the better time your cooling will have.
- A 5x5 Erad is 2.5x better then a 3x3 Erad.
- A basic rad can do 20 rps with no load, a 3x3 Erad can do 32 rps with no load and a 5x5 can do 36
- rps with no load.
- The higher load your engine has the more heat it will produce. This is why people use medium and
- large gens for their cooling test sense they give the highest load. Oh and gears add load as well.
- You need pumps for mod engine cooling manifolds.
- Exchangers like L-L do need pumps.
- Rads already come with there own coolant.

temps engines overheat at

- Mod and prefab overheat at 115 and explode at 120 so keep it 100 or below.
- Jets don't overheat. They just explode at 200 rps.
- Fireboxes don't overheat, same way with motors.
- Reactors meltdown at 1,500

I have heard alot about cooling. From lies to statements that are just off by a number to questions that somehow everyone keeps asking. So let's begin.

Yes rads can be in a sealed area. You have no idea how many times I have gotten this question. Yes a rad can be in the hull of a ship or out in the open. There is no difference.

Modular engine cooling ain't broken.
Your just a skill issue

Higher rps =/= better cooling. Yes people have argued that the higher your engine rps the better your cooling will be. It's the other way around.

here is another cooling guide that most likely has better information then this one
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2488618797

As always with these guides. If I forgot anything or any of my info is off please let me know because I want to make these guides as true as possible.