Hi, I see you've clicked on this guide to building tanks in almost all ways. I hope you like this guide for it's abilities and have really good looking and performing tanks.

Although it's recommended to view from top-to-bottom, you can skip to any section in this guide since it doesn't really matter, as long as you learn from it it'll be fine. If lost, the table of descriptions is there to guide you, as well as the sections listed as the bottom-right widgets.

Feel free to take as much inspiration as you can from the tanks displayed in this guide, it's there to look at.

NOTE:

The functional part of this guide is currently of making, and I'm focusing on the cosmetic stuff first. The functional part will take a while to get started on, so don't get your hopes up.

Also, I'm sorry but so far only the WWI era is here. I'm trying to refine it all the way before I get to other eras.

Very useful to know:

So the time periods in this game are not very specific, and I as someone who just plopped himself in the middle of the game, didn't understand what Interwar, Earlywar, ect meant.

Now that I've learnt a bit more, as we all do, I now know that Interwar, Earlywar, Midwar and Latewar are all stages of World War II, hence the separation between WWI and the rest of in-game eras.


This guide is in it's possibly earliest stages in life, I swear I will NOT abandon this guide, no matter what. Even if it doesn't receive updates, I'm still working on it. Enjoy

Just in case you get lost, or need to find a specific thing, the table of descriptions is here to help you! It provides short summaries on each (sub-)section.

The sections below are all about the design to cosmetics and realistic things that would be on a real tank. Like smoke detonators, since this game doesn't have them (because there are no missiles to target you).

P.S. the reason I have introductions upon introductions is because I want the guide index to be ordered. The guide index is the bottom-most widget on the right, labelling all the sections of this guide. Later, when this guide has reached a higher level of development, it'll include some functional tips to optimise some of the littler things.

This section includes everything for enhancing Overall Modelling And Creativity, and convenience.


I want you to look at this tank photo and see what you think of it. (I'm missing a decal, don't make much of it.)




Now, I want you to look at this one, involving modelled fenders.




Notice how the modelled one has that little more creativity to it instead of simply putting on some of the only preset fenders the game supplies you with? It also works better with the rivets, as the preset fenders' rivets pop out too much (at least in my opinion), while the modelled ones match the tank nicely.

(credits to @DontMindMelmJustANoob for the above tank.)

Let me show you another example. Take this soon-to-be drivers compartment:



I want to make this so that the driver inside has a little hatch to get out and in to. Now, one way is to simply do this:



But, If I want a little more to it, This is not the way. Instead, I might do It like this:




This way is not only more stylish, but is also flexible. If I wanted to make it wider, I just scale some points outwards (because symmetry doesn't work here, as it's not on the centre of this current example tank). If I wanted it a little more forward, I just move it down and outward slightly so that it blends nicely.





Things like this will drastically increase your tank designing. Look at these 2 tanks down here (no camo so you can see better). One, the top ones, I made a while back and just look... lazy. And the ones on the bottom that I made so recently is the improved version.

Top:

Bottom:
The bottom just looks so much more refined.


Keeping presets of your most used models will decrease the time taken to build your tank, or your tank's accessories, by a lot. Here is a table, technically a list, of my most recommended models to keep at hand:

Style and philosophy is very, very important if you create some sort of fictional tank-making country. For example, German tanks were usually heavy, over-engineered, and often had vertical armour, and Soviet tanks were simple, rugged, and mass-produced. Alternatively, you don't have to do this, this is for specific types of designs you want to follow, but it's good to get with the program if you do.

I usually categorise the "styles" into WWI, early-WWII, and late-WWII. This makes for good separation without making too much types. Let's look at the German line as an example, simplified for better shape viewing.

For WWI, I would say they were British- and French-inspired, and were not very mass-produced. A problem they wouldn't learn from :(.


A7V, the only German-produced tanks in WWI.

As far as early-WWII goes, they tend to have this specific sort of design, too specific to explain right now. But here is the general thing.



Panzerkampfwagen IV medium tank (top), and the Ausf. H version (bottom).

Later in WWII, they lean on more heavies and super-heavies. These often had rounded turrets and vertical armour.





Panzerkampfwagen VI Ausf. H1 Tiger (top), also known as the Tiger 131, and a Tiger E (middle), and super-heavy Maus (bottom), meaning "mouse" in German.

Now, this doesn't mean the German heavies are strictly for late-WWII, but I ordered it that way because it seemed logical.

This section is all about the WWI and Interwar design of cosmetics on tanks.


On your tanks, you want rivets, because welding is not a thing here. Rivets are what's used dominantly in this period(s) to attach metal plates together.

Here I've got a MK.X here as a perfect example, and notice where it's covered in rivets in these photos here \/



Where the connection is theoretically "weak", add rivets. For example, most tanks here have rivets everywhere, but where faces are big, like on this Panzerkampfwagon 22C below, it splits it into 2 so it can be better structured.



If your tank has rounded edges, then there are a few tricks you could do.
1. Don't rivet it, best when there are already rivets near it's edges.
2. Only rivet the edges, best when it transitions into a rounded edge.
3. Split it, good with any riveting technique. You can split this into 2 if you like.


Photo: A custom 1939 tank, featuring rivets on the back, front, sides and top of the hull and turret.


Photo: A modified Model 1, featuring a vertically rounded turret split with rivets on the back, also vertically.

But simply riveting is sometimes not enough detail. You want more detail without over-cluttering it all. Your solution? Rivets on panels!:



Here, I've pointed 3 arrows to the panels are most obvious. Where the right arrows point, the rivets are on metal brackets (edge and corner reinforcers), and where the left arrow points the rivets are in a sort of ditch, with a second line of rivets adjacent to it.



On the Renault FT above, the rivets are simply on a plate, copied straight from the faces below.

This gets that extra riveting feel we want, especially on tanks including bolted plates... because that's what riveting is.

And if you want, you can go all-out and create a frame, since riveted panels, especially in WWI, were connected to an inner skeleton. Although it can be tedious, it can also be easier if you only want to modify one plate and still keep the rest of the geometry clean.
(You don't have to listen to the above, it's just a very laborious suggestion.)



When choosing wheels and other mobile-related things you want to apply these rules:

1. Always equip the Mark IV or Big Cat Track Segment, it's in ALL Interwar and WWI tank
designs in Sprocket. The Big Cat, in spite of the name, is the track segment used on German big cats (panthers, tigers, ect.) so I don't actually know why it's included, since the Mark IV segment is historically used everywhere.

2. The length of track segments are typically long with WWI tanks, and kinda short with WWII
ones. As long as it stops you from having the problem in figure 3, then you're good to go.

3. Always have return rollers, every tank in these eras have some.

4. Usually, it's either the default return roller wheel or the T-34 roadwheel as the roadwheels (and
typically the idler). Again, the T-34 roadwheel is a WWII thing just like the Big Cat track segment,
but there's nothing from stopping you having it.

5. You can use any sprocket since, in WWI, they were hidden and when they did show, take the
Renault FT as an example, they were just plain discs with teeth.


figure 1

figure 2


figure 3, The tracks are too long in the left tank. But you can never be too short on the right tank (Tiger). Unless it looks bad.



Since the invention of side skirts (sometimes called spaced armour for a more broad definition https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spaced_armour ) it is vital for most modern tanks to have something protecting there sides from incoming shells. However, we, right now, are in the WWI/Interwar period of tanks and are going to build track armour or side skirts. Either one works.

Generally, it's good to model your side skirts/spaced armour and commander cupolas, as mentioned before, but this time I'll get more specific; the tanks below feature the in-game riveted panels and cupolas, from the game itself:



Now, these might seem fine, but after a while they can get repetitive, unimaginative, or just predictable. Modelling them will help not only remove the just then listed, but make them more realistic compared to the current era.

For example, let's start on the side skirts. The realistic sense is that they don't let the wheels show, since they didn't actually need to let them show, because of lack of suspension.




Also, you can make modelled side skirts fit your tread's shape so much easier and smoother, which matches the hidden wheels vibe.

For cupolas, it's just good to not use the preset ones. I can't really give you much else. In WWI they were kind of simple, and only the Renault-FT cupola is WWI-ish enough to go on your tank. Which makes it repetitive in that way.

Section for the not-entirely-useful-but-still-adds-features stuff, as well as things that don't fit anywhere else.


Openable hatches aren't actually possible while fighting, and only in the editor. But let me tell you how anyway:

1 - Model your hatch.
As the above, I've got a hatch modelled right here, ready to transform.



Notice how the axis is in the dead centre? We need to change that.

2 - Move the model.
Now, all we need to do is move the model across, like so:


This makes the model be rotatable around the axis when you rotate it. And then move the axis back to where you want to rotate it:


Like so.

3 - Open!
Now, you can open them by rotating the axis when it's set to rotation mode.


Again, this is only possible to open inside the editor, but it definitely looks better in some cases. Repeat this around your tank and you'll never have to go into internals view ever again!



Spare wheels:
You can use these to create extra wheels that you can put in weird orientations the game's default wheels don't allow!



Sadly, it doesn't spin, but it adds that nice cosmetic touch.

Return rollers:
Return rollers can act as a secret passageway for treads that don't have an all that realistic path, like below:



You can hide a return roller, with minimum thinness, diameter, offset, wheel per axle, spacing on axle, and mount scale, either inside wheels like this:

Or like this, where it creates a new path for the tread:

Although this third way is not recommended as it makes the treads phase through the wheels and the way the treads move aren't as smooth.


You can overhang your commander cupolas, which means you sort of put it off to the side a bit kind of off the turret. This is generally wanted when you have small turret tops.


You don't really see this technique on just hulls since hulls are bigger and wider than turrets in the interwar and WWI period, but you can if you want. There is nothing from stopping you and who knows, maybe it'll look better on all your turret-less tanks.

Completely random tips, too specific even to put as it's own category.

1. Having torsion bar suspension reverse direction will not let you trench cross wide trenches for tanks under ~20km/h.
   
2. I forgot 1
   
3. I forgot 2

Thank you for listening and enjoying this guide, there will be more and there will be a better conclusion. Have a good day everyone and enjoy blasting projectiles at other moving metal blocks.

P.S, if you clicked this because you wanted tutorials on how to build and win your every scenario, I removed it because I was getting I little too widespread with this guide, so sorry! I will make another guide that concentrates on it, but for now this guide is the focus. Good luck!
(This message will "expire" on January 1st, 2026.)