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Now, as far as what you want to run, radius is what determines that, not the track. It doesn't matter if I'm running on Bachmann EZ, Athearn Code 100, or Kato Unitrack, if a locomotive or car derails on 18" radius, changing track systems won't change that. For example I have an Athearn SD45 which derails constantly on 18" radius track, but probably could handle 22" radius like a champ. Same goes for turnouts, a locomotive or car may pick the points on a #4 but it'll glide through a #6. For a Rivarossi 85-footer I'd recommend 24" curves and #6 turnouts. Same goes for any large 8-coupled locomotive (i.e. a Northern) or 6-axle diesel (i.e. an SD45).
Also, some tips from personal experience--EZ Track with the black ballast have more corrosive steel rails (as opposed to grey ballast / nickel-silver). I've found a rag soaked with rubbing alcohol and rubber-banded around a wood block cleans up the corrosion nicely. Another bit of care which EZ track requires is when you set up or take apart EZ Track, pinch both plastic clips and avoid flexing the track vertically to keep the rail joiners in good shape.
Also if you can find one at your local model train swapmeet or on Ebay - if you're running DC, I strongly recommend a secondhand MRC Tech II powerpack. First thing I did was I tucked my Bachmann powerpack in a box somewhere, powered up a MRC Tech II-2400 I got secondhand, and never looked back!