Any way of making the editor grid match the in game grid?
Its a little frustrating when making wiring stuff, only to get in game to find that youll never be able to place anything without it looking misaligned -x-

Originally posted by Emily Mewens:

Any way of making the editor grid match the in game grid?
Its a little frustrating when making wiring stuff, only to get in game to find that youll never be able to place anything without it looking misaligned -x-

The Grid is static. It does not move with the structure of the sub and it is the same in-game.
So when you get misalignments between Editor placed components and in-game placed components, it is because the Editor components were aligned using the Arrow Keys. The Editor ones have been manually made off-grid. In-game you can never align your components with those because you can't go off-grid there.

To prevent this, if you're placing components in the Editor and don't like how they're positioned, instead of moving them freely with the Arrow Keys, instead move everything else on grid. Grab the whole sub and move it around on the grid until the components end up in the position you want.
Because the Grid is static and doesn't move or change, we will instead move everything else until we find the grid to be suitable.

You can also use the "Snap to Grid" button on the left of the Editor.

Originally posted by Chimz:

Originally posted by Emily Mewens:

Any way of making the editor grid match the in game grid?
Its a little frustrating when making wiring stuff, only to get in game to find that youll never be able to place anything without it looking misaligned -x-

The Grid is static. It does not move with the structure of the sub and it is the same in-game.
So when you get misalignments between Editor placed components and in-game placed components, it is because the Editor components were aligned using the Arrow Keys. The Editor ones have been manually made off-grid. In-game you can never align your components with those because you can't go off-grid there.

To prevent this, if you're placing components in the Editor and don't like how they're positioned, instead of moving them freely with the Arrow Keys, instead move everything else on grid. Grab the whole sub and move it around on the grid until the components end up in the position you want.
Because the Grid is static and doesn't move or change, we will instead move everything else until we find the grid to be suitable.

You can also use the "Snap to Grid" button on the left of the Editor.

Then perhaps the wiring grid is different. I dont use arrowkeys to place wire, i just click. But when i get in game i cannot replace the wires where they were.

ill check out the snap to grid tho. Maybe its just weird for me P:

not sure thats what you want to hear but here goes

Have you tried putting more than one reactor on a sub and what have you observed from it ?

I was wondering if you could tell me why my ship needs such a high ballast to maintain zero bubble?

I noticed that my ship was naturally ascending at a rate of 6 knots. To correct it I had to set a 0.6 ballast level. Seems a little extreme.

Would increasing or decreasing the ballast volumes remedy that?

Originally posted by Hydremajor117:

not sure thats what you want to hear but here goes

Have you tried putting more than one reactor on a sub and what have you observed from it ?

While i havent tested it, i genuinely dont see any issues with doing it. The reactor isnt a mythical device that just magically powers things. Everything has to be connected to it in order to give power. If theres no connection, theres no influence.

As for AI, i imagine they would que up reactor refills as they were required. I would have to test this, but im pretty certain that the AI targets the objects specifically, not generally, meaning that they shouldnt get confused between the two reactors. But again, this is definitely something i havent tested yet.
If i were to test it, id set up two reactors in a test area, let them both run until they both run out of power, and see how the ai handles it. Id also see how th e ai handles orders to turn them on, or off.

There is one other aspect that im unsure on, and thats if you hook two reactors up to the same grid.This would definitely require testing on my half as i believe that it could do one of two things.
Normally the reactor only outputs as much as the system needs,and will take battery power into consideration, so in theory both reactors should be able to run in tandem with each other, only outputting the power needed equally. Or they get confused, and one works correctly while the other does something weird or they fight each other for dominance.
To test this, id hook them both up to their own junction box, then from there to an engine, and run the engine at full power, and see what happens while monitoring the power output in both junction boxes. If the boxes both have equal numbers, then they share the load, if one has a higher number, or theres wild fluctuations, then its problematic.

But that said, if theyre both on their own grid and have no connection whatsoever to each other, then i dont think thered be any kind of issue at all, outside of maybe ai being dumb.

Originally posted by spaceweezle:

I was wondering if you could tell me why my ship needs such a high ballast to maintain zero bubble?

I noticed that my ship was naturally ascending at a rate of 6 knots. To correct it I had to set a 0.6 ballast level. Seems a little extreme.

Would increasing or decreasing the ballast volumes remedy that?

Generally it is advised to have your ballast tanks cover 1/3 of your whole submarine's volume size and to keep neutral ballast level at around 0.5. The more volume of your whole submarine your ballasts cover, the bigger that number gets and the less volume they take the lower the number gets.

The higher the number (from 0.5), the more your ship will float and the less it is, the more your ship will sink when not moving.

Personally I've found having a level of 0.45 is most optimal for me, allowing me to move on the Y axis pretty close to max possible speed while also not floating/sinking (while X speed can go up to 100km/h, Y speed is limited to max 18km/h).


So yes, make your ballast tanks bigger or the rest of your ship's hulls smaller and your neutral ballast level will drop from 0.6 and you will stop floating.

Originally posted by Chimz:

Originally posted by spaceweezle:

I was wondering if you could tell me why my ship needs such a high ballast to maintain zero bubble?

I noticed that my ship was naturally ascending at a rate of 6 knots. To correct it I had to set a 0.6 ballast level. Seems a little extreme.

Would increasing or decreasing the ballast volumes remedy that?

Generally it is advised to have your ballast tanks cover 1/3 of your whole submarine's volume size and to keep neutral ballast level at around 0.5. The move volume of your whole submarine your ballasts cover, the bigger that number gets and the less volume they take the lower the number gets.

The higher the number (from 0.5), the more your ship will float and the less it is, the more your ship will sink.

Personally I've found having a level of 0.45 is most optimal for me, allowing me to move on the Y axis pretty close to max possible speed while also not floating/sinking (while X speed can go up to 100km/h but Y speed is limited to max 16km/h).


So yes, make your ballast tanks bigger or the rest of your ship's hulls smaller and your neutral ballast level will drop from 0.6 and you will stop floating.

Holy crap, I didn't realize we needed that much ballast volume. A whole 3rd!

Man this will suck as I I've already spent 120 hours designing the ship lol. Not sure if I can even squeeze in any more ballast. Doh!

Well thanks for the knowledge man. Appreciate it!

Is it possible to have a docking hatch that you can also operate as a normal airlock?

Just now I fitted a docking hatch to the belly of my ship, but my intention was to utilize it more for easy access like a traditional airlock door.

For the moment I guess I will just wire it up in accordance with the top hatch and try to rig a manual button for it.

Well it seems that you can't hook up a switch for manual control as it is superseded by the docking wiring from nav terminal. Using a manual switch just makes the door spasm.

Is there perhaps a component I can throw in between the nav docking signal so that I can toggle between auto-docking and manual control via switch?

I was able to get the hatch and port to operate manually via switch while also retaining docking function. At least it works for docking with partner ships in the editor.

I did run into a separate issue, which is docking to the underbelly of a ship causes my top-mounted Railgun to get stuck inside the hull which also prevents undocking.

After moving the Railgun off the top I was able to dock/undock. I'd just like to know if there are any workarounds for this? The Railgun will be far less useful if dropped down to main deck from the airlock deck.

Edit:
The only thing I can think of is to simply scale down the gun itself. There is still some 'crunching' going on, but I can actually undock now.

I have another left-field question:

How does ship updating work in this game?

I made some adjustments in the editor but this is not reflected when I load my save. Does this mean I have to buy the ship again to register the updated design?

Well crud, I used the save decompressor to register the updated design but I didn't foresee that I would lose all my stored items in the process.

Luckily I had a save backup right before I bought the sub. Here's to spending another 3 hours rearranging all the items again.

Originally posted by spaceweezle:

I have another left-field question:

How does ship updating work in this game?

I made some adjustments in the editor but this is not reflected when I load my save. Does this mean I have to buy the ship again to register the updated design?

Well seems like you fixed your docking hatch problem by yourself so I'll just answer the ship updating.

Whenever you edit your ship, when you update its workshop version, everyone who is subscribed gets notified in the main menu and can update it with a single click.

On local (your own computer), whatever new save you start will use the new version.


However, this update does not change pre-existing saves. So if you're using your own custom sub in your campaign and you found some flaws to fix, you need to edit your save file and change the save's submarine separately, because as you just discovered, simply replacing it will also remove all your belongings.

Fortunately you can follow CannonFodder's full explanation:

Originally posted by CannonFodder:

download barotrauma save decompressor from github

decompress .save file (make a backup first) located here: C:\Users\*username*\AppData\Local\Daedalic Entertainment GmbH\Barotrauma

.sub file in the folder decompressor created is your current submarine

now go to *steam installation path*\steamapps\common\Barotrauma\LocalMods\ and create a folder "campaign sub", put .sub file there

in "campaign sub" folder create a new text file, open it with notepad, press file->save as-> name of the file: filelist.xml

open filelist.xml with notepad and add

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> <contentpackage name="campaign sub" modversion="1.0.7" corepackage="False" gameversion="0.20.16.1"> <Submarine file="%ModDir%/*submarine name*.sub" /> </contentpackage>

change *submarine name* to the name of your submarine file, save the changes

load barotrauma, go to mods and activate "campaign sub", now you should be able to load it in editor

after editing submarine put .sub file back into decompressed folder (replacing the old .sub ) and use decompressor tool to compress the folder back to .save file

If you found his explanation useful (like I did many many times) and wish to support him, you can go to the original post here and give him a community award:
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/app/602960/discussions/0/6980058383086629095/

Yeah the whole update limitation of this engine gets on my nerves. It doesn't seem like it can do anything on-the-fly let alone translate a simple ship edit into your save.

Unfortunately the above method only works before editing. But yes I might have to reward that guy. Good info for the next revision.

I can't believe how much time I've poured into making this ship. I think it's fair to say I enjoy shipbuilding more than playing the game itself. I'm super impressed with my airlock/docking hatch extension. I never liked how the auto hatches give you no control. Now I have bottom and top docking with manual override, it's very satisfying to use.

Does anyone know why I get a reduced charge rate running the power-in to a relay as opposed to junction to main output relay?

I have the battery array set so that it takes power from junction via a relay. If I add in a relay between the junction and this relay I lose about 40% output to the batteries. The added relay is just a pass-through with a switch.

I'll try to illustrate it better:

Junction > Relay > Battery > 10kw per second
Junction > Relay > Relay > Battery > 6kw per second

I added in the other relay so I could have independent toggles for battery power and charging circuit.

Edit: Okay I'm a bit of an idiot. Turns out the relays have their own defined power limit. I increased the power limit and it can keep up with the rest of the circuit. Yay!