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(Not 0.7 ready yet) 4-6-4 'Hermes' Express Locomotive

The passenger car seen on the pictures can be found here:
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1630438577

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The 4-6-4 'Hermes' Class Express Steam Locomotive

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Technical data:

- max width: 12 blocks (3 m)
- max height: 15 blocks (3.75 m)
- max lenght: 44 blocks (11 m)
- number of engines: 2x large (200 HP)
- driving wheel size: 7 (large)
- number of driving wheels: 6
- number of weighting chests: 2 (although they should not be used on this loco!)
- suspension: Xaerthus's mk II with double cross-rope stabilisation
- max speed with no load: 100 km/h *
- average speed with no load: 85 km/h *
- max speed with 25 t: 90 km/h *
- average speed with 25 t: 70 km/h *
- max weighting needed: 0 t

* Measured during several laps on track meeting high speed standards.
Max slope on that track: +/- 5°
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Description and warning:

X-RAI (Xaerthus's Rail & Air Industries) proudly present the newest pinnacle of medieval technology. Were you ever in the need to get somewhere really fast, but all locomotives yet created were just too slow for you? Now there is 'Hermes', which can take you anywhere at lightning speed of 100 km/h, beating any competition at least two times! Sign up today!

Time for the serious part. This loco is NOT designed for hauling cargo. Pulling more that 25 t is possible but not advised (there are better designs for doing that). This one is heavily optimised for high speed and can therefore go very fast with small to medium loads.

Now, high speeds (50+ km/h) in Medieval Engineers are dangerous. They get exponentially more dangerous, the faster you are going. If you hit anything at 60-70 (even a single loose plank) or get hanging at anything, you are going to have a very bad and explosive day (look at two last pictures). This loco IS safe and works perfectly as long as you follow some important rules:
- you need to have proper high speed track, not looking like a rollercoaster. That means:
---no sharp curves, make them as shallow as you can. You can and you will be thrown out of a too sharp curve.
---no sharp slopes. Try to keep them around the 5° mark. It can do more, just don't go too sharp into it.
---tunnels should be possibly straight. Going fast on a curve makes your cars lean a bit. You catch on anything = you die.
---tunnels and valleys should be dug out carefully to not omit any voxel. The default size is generally enough, just dont forget anything (ceiling is also important)
- periodically check your driving wheels for damage (try to start picking them up for a moment) and if there is any, repair it immedeatly. The wheels shouldn't get damaged by normal use, though extensive wheel slip and hard breaking can damage them. Better to check it, than to lose a wheel at 90 km/h.
- always keep you track clean of any debris. Seriously, one small piece of anything will destroy your guiding bogie and you can imagine what happens next. Better check one more time than end up thrown around in a 200 m radius.
- if you have to have a sharper curve or some difficult piece of track, put a sign before it, so you don't forget to break
- switches CAN be used at full speed, but they also have to be very shallow (and look out for some wierd track bendiness that happens sometimes)

I could do some tutorial or at least some tips and tricks on how to build such track if there is such need. Just let me know.

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Setup instructions:

1. Place blueprints of engine on a straight and level piece of track.
2. Connect the wheels and driving shafts with ropes as shown in the pictures. The left and right side do differ slightly. (In the picture the wheels are not perfectly straight as they should be during this setup. That is to show the connections of ropes that would otherwise overlap)
3. Delete the planks connecting the wheels and engine shafts together
4. Stabilise the suspension through the holes in the frame by connecting the rope hooks in a 2 times x pattern (upper front left -> lower rear right, upper front right -> lower rear left upper rear left -> lower front right, upper rear right -> lower front left) It should look like in the pictures. On the front you may need to temporary delete some part of the grill, sometimes the hitboxes of rope hooks won't work as intended.
IMPORTANT: Good stabilisation is crutial for going in high speed! One misplaced rope can make the difference between max 50 km/h and max 100 km/h. Therefore it should be done on a straight and level piece of track.
5. Cover the holes in the frame with timbers or planks.

Congratulations, your 'Hermes' Class is ready to use!

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Operating hints:

- The engines can be reached for switching/grabbing throttle by climbing on the front of the engine and walking on the sideskirts.
- The engines can be refueled by clicking on the down-rear part of the side of the engine from over the sideskirts. It is a bit tricky at the beginning but once you know where to click, its easy to use.
- If the wheels slip throttle down a bit until they 'catch' again. Slipping wheels have almost no grip, so you will be going slower. Good throttle balance is especially important when getting up too speed. Furthermore wheel slip may damage your wheels sometimes.
- If the wheels slip and the engine wont move, you are trying to pull too much cargo. Use a more cargo-optimised engine for that, for example the 'Minotaur' Class. Do not place weights into the weighting chests. That will destroy your wheels.
- Clanging and crackling noises are normal and should not be worried about.
- Sometimes some jumping of the engine occurs. Generally it shouldn't do anything bad, but just in case check your wheels for damage after arrival at destination.
- The engine has no breaks. To slow down, just decrease the throttle. If more stopping power is needed, throttling up in reverse works great. Though this should be done only in emergencies. Hard breaking and wheel slip may damage your wheels.
- Do not stand freely in your cab while going fast. Bad things may happen otherwise. For better visibility use spectator cam. For slow and delicate manouvres you can also just stand outside.

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