Diesel
Diesel or combustion engine is an engine that runs off of diesel. They require air, fuel, and exhaust. These are simple and complex at the same time. If you're new to the game I recommend these and when I mean these I mean prefabs aka small, aircraft (sorry, medium) and large. The mod (modular) engines are more complex if you're new. Ok let's get into them.

Prefab

Ok so the prefab engines are the easy engines but they are also the hard ones as well but that will come down to cooling. Ok so all prefab engines are the same so just grab one and place it down.

Ok so lets deal with air first sense that's the easiest. So just put an air filter on the air node. I might want to go over the difference between air filters and ports. Ok so air filters, rams, and exhaust pipes all have the same properties as the ports. Slots and scoops have different properties. Ok back to air. Now if your engine is in an enclosed area aka its sealed then you will need to run a pipe outside because the engine won't take air from inside a box.

Next is fuel. Now diesel engines take gasoline. I'm joking. They take diesel. So there's two ways to get diesel fuel to your engine.
1 - use a prefab tank. These are your small, med, large tanks. These are simple enough to use so you should understand them.
2 - custom tanks. Ok so the way a custom tank works is by taking a box, putting a fluid spawning inside and adding a port to draw the fluid from it. Now you can also add a fluid meter to see how much fuel you have.
Ok so just take a pipe from your fuel tank and run it to your fuel node on the engine. Yeah that's it. I don't know what more you were expecting.

Oh boy, exhaustion. It's basically just like air except it goes out of the engine instead of in. yeah that's it.

Cooling. Ok so this is where i can run on about cooling for 3 pages but i won't…yet. Take a rad (radiator) and hook it to your cooling system now there are 3 types of rad.
Basic - back in my day we didn't have these fancy rads that use fans to cool faster. We had to use these basic rads.
Electric - ok so they basically have a fan… that's it. You know what I would like. If these fans could be fed RPS to speed up cooling.
Heat sinks - ok so from my testing they are just longer basic rads. That's it. I don't really know what they do.
For you I would use an electric now there are two types. 3x3 and 5x5. The 5x5 is better at cooling but is a bit bigger so choose what you want.

Ok so now you should have everything that you need to run. Hook up a throttle and push button or your starter and test it out. If it works then good. If not then you most likely missed something. It will most likely be eclectic.

Mod

Oh boy. Mod (modular) engines are 100x better in every way. They are more fuel efficient, easier to cool, they take up less space, and are more powerful. Only downside to them is A - they don't sound too good and B - take some time to learn but it's 100% worth it. Oh and saying “yeah my truck has a flat 6” is more fun to say then “yeah my truck has a small engine.” ok so engines are basically the same but you will need to build it out on your own or just read a guide.

Ok first thing first let's go over what you need
Crank
Cylinder
Air manifold
Fuel manifold
Exhaust manifold
Cooling manifold
Mod engine clutch
Drive belt
Starter
This is starting to look like a shopping list now.

Ok so first thing first place down your crank. For this example I'm going to be going over how to make an I5. if you're not familiar with engines that means the cyls (cylinders) are on top of the crank. Ok next place your cylinders.

These are all the cylinder combinations you can do if you want to see what you can make
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2659773670

Ok so next place your clutch down. You're going to need a modular clutch. You need to place these on the “end” of your engine aka where you place your clutch is the engine and drive belt is front. It also needs to be on the crank of the engine as well. This is how we turn the rotation forces of the engine into usable power.

Next add your belt to the crank. This is how we add starters, alts (don't use. You need 15 of them to be equal to a small gen) and mod pumps. For now just add starters to it.

Ok fun part. The manifolds. Place down your manifolds. You’ll have 4. They are the same as the prefab if you read the section. Air has a port, exhaust has a port, fuel has a tank and lets go over cooling. The manifolds need their own pumps. Now fuel, air, exhaust don't need their own pumps if the pipes are short due to the pressure difference but cooling manifolds on the other hand the rads have two ways to go so they just won't work so we need to add some pumps to not only have them to work but to have a higher flow rate.

I have a whole guide on cooling but I'll be going into more depth in this guide on cooling as well. https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2754530464

Ok so now we need to go over how to start it. Building the engine aint hard. Getting it started can be the hard part. So we need to go over AFR and exhaust. So for now just take a throttle lever and a function with x/2 in it. Take the throttle and hook it to the air and function to the fuel. Now AFR is only one part of the equation to get the engine running so I'm going to push it to the side and talk about exhaust first. If your engine doesn't have enough exhaust manifolds it will choke and well die. So make sure your engine is always at 100% exhaust. Fine, I'll talk about AFR. AFR or Air Fuel Ratio is how much air you have per fuel. Now you want from 13.7 - 14.7 to run. Now if you want to talk about power then you need to go over to the sctioch (i think thats what its called) to understand actually how your engine is running. All you need to know is stoich is based off of AFR and temp and for max power you need 0.2. Now 0.5 i think is max efficient but these engines are already efficient so just need to aim for max power.

I think that covers all the basics of the mod engine.

The noise makers themselves. Jets. ok so jets are fairly easy to figure out. There set up is:
Intake > compressor > combustion > turbine > exhaust. That's it. Exhaust is optional by the way.
Fine. I'll go over them in further detail.

Ok so jets require you guessed it. Gasoline. Sadly no, they require A1 jet fuel also known as jet fuel and you feed it through the combustion chamber. Oh and you can put them in sealed areas and they will work.

Oh and might want to use a pid by the way.
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2788601730 Your going to see that guide a lot

That's it. I don't know what else you want.

This is literally ripped straight from the first version of the engine guide.

Electricity is the simplest one but I'll still go over it. The way you set up an electric motor is by adding a battery and a throttle… and that's it really. Now electric motors are torque over rps and they only make 20 rps but they make a whole lotta torque. Now keep in mind that the more load you add the more electricity you're going to be using.

Steam
Ah. The whole reason why I'm making this guide. Steam. Ok so i separated nuclear and coal up so i can go over there way of turning water into steam… or just heat in general. Yeah that's it.

Ok so the basics of a steam engine is a boiler making water that runs through a turbine then into a condenser but umm… condensers aren't working but i have other ways of cooling. Ok so place down your boiler now there are 4 fluid nodes. Cooling A/B which we don't really need to worry about. All you need to know is that's where your firebox or reactor will go and have hot water running through it. Now there is steam in and water out. Now the steam out is where the hot steamy steam comes out. Starts to question what I just said. and the water in can only be fresh water so you can either have a tank of water or use a cooling system. Now you can make steam at 100c because well that's when water boils at so i usually hit 110c for water. So my fireboxes are usually at 115c just so I can speed up steam making.

Next, send the steam to your turbines. There's three nodes more or less. Steam in where you put your steam in. steam out where the steam gets sent out and last but not least the two rps nodes. I just use one side but you can have one side be your props and the other side be your generator. I think they added two so you can chain them together.

Pistons work the same way just more animated and give higher torque

NOTE : Higher pressure results in lower rps

Ok so now lets go over to cooling aka turning steam back into water. There's really 4 ways to do it. Using the condenser which you can try but every time I use it, it wont work. It's either the fact 24 rads at 60 lps is too little or condensers are broken. Next is roads. These are nice but rads store water in them which aint really want you want but i asked the devs to add a slider to rads for how much water they used so someday we might see that… maybe. Exchangers. This is what I might be using a lot more. So my view on them recently changed when I shoved one into my boat and it worked. Last time i checked they didnt work but then again i did my test right after they released them so they most likely have fixed them. Last but not least, just using a tank of fresh water and getting rid of the steam. Ok i dont like this idea that much but if you want to be realistic then sure. Go for it.
Coal
Ok coal aka fireboxes is what i use the most sense reactors are a bit slow and i just like coal. Ok so fireboxes have a in and out so be careful of that and what i do is i have a pump going in and a pump going out, usually small pumps. I do this so I can have a high flow rate of 50 - 60 lps so I can get it to heat up faster. Now yes you can have one without a pump but it's nice to have one. Now the way I do this is by using a pid and a variable valve one the air.

Here is a guide on pids if you want to know how
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2788601730
Reactors
This following section is ripped right from bunglist and the first version of the “guide”

Now the way reactors work is that when two fuel rods are close to each other they will produce more heat and when they get too hot you might want to use some control rods to keep them all cool. Now the way I do it is by x/1000. X is your rod temp and the output goes to your control rods.

Info from bunglist:

Recommended Nuclear Fuel Rod Layout 0 is nothing,
C is control rod,
F is fuel rod:
0-F-F-0
C-F-F-C
0-F-F-0

Nuclear Engine Optimisation - boiler pressure over 9.75 but under 10 - boiler temp around 140 - condenser temp under 75 - pump the water from the condenser into the boiler as fast as you can, best is an impeller driven at over 6RPS (this pump is only needed for more than 10 turbines)

the numbers above may have changed. The ones i'd suspect are most likely to have changed are the number of turbines in the last bullet point, so could just exclude the part in parentheses

Simple Control Rod Insertion: for around 300ish reactor temp, use a func block with: clamp( (x-280)/40 ,0,1) where x is the temperature of one of the control rods in the middle

Ok so i have found something out. You need to have your control rods inline with your fuel rods. So place your control rods 3 blocks up.

Now I want to go over something. You can use a pid for a reactor. You just need to have the pid. The way i did it was activating the pid like 20c from where i want the set point to be.

Controller if its updated

Straight from the first guide.


Oh boy, another simple one. SRB or solid rocket boosters are both fun and annoying. First you're going to get a booster and some fuel… and hook up a push button… that it. Now let's say your rocket aint flying straight then just lower down the burn rate on them.

Just like the last guide.

Diesel

Ok for diesel engines there are many things you can add. Superchargers, ECU, and filters. Ok so lets start with superchargers. A supercharger is basically a pump for your air. Now people say these only work for mod engines but I have seen some improvement for prefab engines but for mod engines you will need to compensate for more fuel by the way. You usually only have to add 0.4 fuel to the supercharger.

Now for an ECU you will need it. Ha. yeah no. just get one off the WS. no way in hell i'll be going over a full ECU guide…. Ok later. Well here are three you can download off the WS.

ZE mod engine ECU
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2416132817&searchtext=ZE+modular
Mine
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2611422640&searchtext=C4V+ecu
Bunglist
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2597547941&searchtext=PS+Diesel+ECU+v2

ZE is mod only but everyone uses it so it must be good.
Mine can be used on mod, prefab, and jets. Can use 0-1 throttle or min-max. Yeah that's it's only upside.
Bunglist has a stoic holder which is fairly stable.

Ok why filters? Well it's just a nice way to make sure you're not running jet fuel through your engine when refueling. That's my only excuse for using filters. That's it.

Jets

Only way to improve jets is by adding more turbines and a combustion chamber.
Basic jet
Intake > compressor > combustion > turbine > exhaust
Better jets
Intake > compressor > combustion > turbine > combustion > turbine > exhaust
Intake > compressor > combustion > turbine > turbine > turbine > turbine

To understand other stuff about jet engines and speed then read sids guide
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2590536990&searchtext=SID

Oh fun fact you can just ditch the compressor and add the intake on the combustion chamber. It's called a ram jet and I still haven't gotten one to fire up.

Electric

Only thing for electric i can recommend is having a separate battery for the motor and adding a torque sensor with a pid. Yeah I'm not going to go into detail on it because it should be simple enough.

Steam

Oh boy. Where do I start. You can add so much to a steam engine to help it that it's not even funny. Well you can also do the same for a diesel but it's like 90% transmission. Ok fine. I'll start.

Auto release valves. It's basically a threshold and a valve. So on your boiler branch out from the steam out. Add a valve on that and hook a port to the outside. Add a threshold from a low of the pressure you want a high of 11. Hook the number to pressure and the bool to the valve. Once the pressure gets too high it will activate the valve and let steam out.

An auto firebox starter. Ok so basically it's like a normal starter for a diesel but you have a lot of higher temps. Ok first thing first place down a toggle button. Next go into the mc editor and make a 1x3 mc. After that add these three nodes:
Start
Firebox temp
Starter
Ok so go into the MC editor and your going to need to place these down:
AND gate
Less then
Constant number
Ok now we can start. Hook the less then to the AND. hook the start node to the AND. take the firebox temp to A on the less then. Take the constant number and hook it to less then B. Set it to 30 (or whatever you want). Ok last but not least hook the AND to the starter.

Ok so how it works is by if the firebox is less then 30c then activate. If less then AND start then activate. That's more or less how it works.

Next up is how to regulate firebox temp so you can use less coal and make your cooling system do less work. So it's basically a pid and a variable valve. Hook the variable valve to the pid output. Hook either a constant on or toggle button to the pid. Hook the set point to a constant number and set it to 115. If you have close to 60 lps of flow from the firebox to the boiler you should hit from 105 - 110 on the boiler. Set the variable to the firebox temp. Set the pid to:
0.1
0.
0.1
And it should work.

Last for now, flywheels. In simplest form, flywheels are kinetic batteries and if you have space for them, add them. Due to how little power steam engines can make, flywheels are kinda needed. The way you set up flywheels for non mod engines is, mod clutch > flywheel > mod clutch. Just make sure you have the clutches active as well and that's it.


Ok now for reactors and holding their temp. What most people do is just use a function with x/500 or something like that. For me I like to use a PID because of course I would use one. So the way I do it is by activating the PID 20 degrees off of target temperature. Oh and you also need to invert your PID as well due to the fact PIDs will decrease your temp and not raise it. Ok so how do i set it all up? Well it's actually fairly simple. Get a greater then, a PID and a constant number. If A (your reactor temperature) is greater then B (your set point) then activate the PID. yeah that's it. Just set up your pid and it should work. In theory. Nothing ever translates from pen and paper to working systems in this game.

Ok now let's move on to how to start a reactor and have auto shut downs as well. So the way I do it is by a toggle button and some compact tracks. So take a switch box and a constant number. Hook the toggle button to the switchbox and the switch box to the track. Off should be -1 but I like -0.1 just so it doesn't go too fast and on is 1 or for me 0.1 and that's it. Very simple. Oh wait. Hook a gate from your toggle to the rod disconnect. If you are done then you won't be able to shut off your reactor when you want it off.

Ok time for the bit more confusing auto shutdown or at least how i do it. So the way I do it is by using a greater then, UDC,pulse, and thresholds. Hook the greater then A to a constant number set to something lower then 1500c. I think I did 1000c on my reactor controller. Now greater then B to your reactor temp. Easy enough. Now take a pulse and hook it to your UDC up. (UDC is an up/down counter by the way). Ok so you're going to need to add a reset button. This will go to your UDC reset. Now set up your UDC to be an increase of 1, reset of 0 and a clamp of 0,1. Now hook a threshold to your UDC and set it to a high of 1 and a low of 1. Now all you need to do is have an override system on your start button.

Now how this works is when your reactor gets above your safety temp will set a pulse to the UDC which will go up 1 and will activate the threshold and unlock the reactor and retract the rods. Then when you want the rods back in just hit the reset button and the safety system will put the rods back in if the system is still on. It's what I did in this micro.
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2793087564

Ok now that's just a few things you can do. You can have way more like a filtration system to have water go to your boiler and steam go back into the cooling system. Have impellers to help your flow rate, auto pressure system to keep your engine running. You get the idea.

SRB/SRM

There's really nothing to do with SRB/SRM besides playing with the xml but making them more powerful.

Ok lets go over fuel for engines/motors. Now you may think fuel is the easy part of engines but I still want to go over them just in case. Now this is all the fuels the engines use.

Prefab - diesel
Mod - diesel
Jet - A1 jet fuel
Motors - electric
Fireboxes - coal
Reactors - fuel rods
SRB/SRM - solid rocket fuel

Ok now lets go over how to store said fuel. Well for diesel, jet you can store them in tanks. Either custom or pre-made. For motors you just store it in batteries, fireboxes store coal in ducts. Reactors hold it in fuel rods and for boosters you just use the fuel cylinders. Easy but I want to go over tanks real quick. You have two types. Custom and prefab. The prefabs are your small, med, and large tanks. Nice for storing fluids either outside of a craft or just trying to be light. Now for custom tanks, you're going to need a stealed area, a fluid spawned, a port and a fluid meter. It's actually very easy. Make a box. Put a spawner, port, meter in there and you're done. Now something you can do to turn your 1567.84L or whatever you have into 0-100 is by doing. (x/y)*100. X is your level and Y is your capacity.

Ok now i want to go over refueling as well. To refuel a tank all you need to do is have a hose anchor or a fluid connector and hook it to your tank or hook it to your fuel line. Easy as that. Now what i do is usually i have both a connector and a hose just in case if a creation has a connector instead of a hose. Now also you might want to add your own pumps as well to your creation just in case. What I do is use an input and an out pump in the same system. Now if you can fit in a pump you can also make a trailer with a pump. For example, here is my electric trailer pump. https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2781071304. Now for batteries. The way you refu... recharge them is by using a cable. You can also use a charger but I find them painfully slow. Now one way to recharge them is by using a generator which is what i like.

Now coal is interesting. There's two ways to refuel? Reload? Bunker? I don't know the terminology for it but for now i'll just say refuel for the sake of it. Ok so there are two ways as i said. One way is using the cranes and just dump coal into your creation (you will need the funnel ducts for it) or do it by hand which is slow but it's the easiest.

Now for nuclear fuel rods. You don't really need a way to refuel them since they are supposedly infinite so I'll just skip over nuclear for now. Later on I might come back if they aren't actually infinite.

Ok last but not least. SRB/SRM and… they can't be refueled. They are a one time use thing so i'll just skip over this.. Again.

Oh boy. Cooling. I do love writing this again. Cooling is an important part of an engine (unless you're electric or SRB/SRM) and it's actually fairly easy if you know what to aim for. Well let's stop wasting time and dive right in.

Ok so there is basically one major thing you want to aim for when cooling an engine. 60+ LPS (liter per second). Now if you think about it. Don't you want a slower flow rate so the hot coolant gets cooled down? Well yes… if this game made any sense once in a while. Now I have a theory. The radiators instantly cool stuff down. Doesn't make sense in real life but in SW it does.

Ok now lets go over every part of cooling. First, what each engine needs for cooling.

Prefab - built in cooling
Mod - cooling manifold
Jets - don't need any
Motors - don't need any
Steam - condensers (if they ever want to work with me)
Fireboxes - air valve
Reactors - control rods
SRB/SRM - don't need any

Now those are just what they need to stay cool (or just holding at a said temp) but let's take a glance at how they work just to remind you or if you just didn't read the other sections.

Now a prefab engine has a built in cooling system and pumps aka all you need to add is a rad.

Mod engines need to have a cooling manifold on the cylinder. Now these don't come with their own pumps so you're going to need to provide your own.

For a steam engine there are a few ways to do it but I'll go over the condenser sense I feel like I hate it a bit too much. So you have steam in and water out. Turbine steam out into condenser steam in and condensers water out into boiler in. There is another part of the condenser. The coolant. Now it is just like a mod engine manifold so you just need to provide your own pumps.

Ok now for fireboxes. Yes they don't need any form of cooling but for keeping how much fuel they use down you might want some. Now it's fairly basic. Just a valve in the air. Just use a pid or a threshold and you can keep your firebox at a cool 110c. Maybe 115c if you want your boiler to heat up faster.

Ok now for reactors. There's many ways of doing it aka pid or function. Either have a function with x/1000, X is rod temp and output is the control rods. Now the way I do it is by using a pid and a greater then.

If A (rod temp) is greater then B (setpoint - 20 (depends on reactor)) then turn on pid.
Pid numbers for a start
1
0
1
Setpoint to pid and variable is rod temp. That should be it.

Controller if you want to see it in action if me explaining it doesn't help.
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2793087564
Ok now lets go over the parts of a cooling system. These will be your rads, exchangers, and pumps for your cooling system. Let's start with the simplest.

Rads

In my book there are 4 types of rads (radiators).

Basic
3x3 E
5x5 E
Heat sink

Now they all work more or less the same. They have a coolant in and a coolant out. When the coolant goes in, it will cool down because it's interacting with the air and then go right back out. Now the 3x3 E and 5x5 E have a fan so it will cool down faster. Also the 5x5 is like 2.5x more efficient then the 3x3. Now lets go over the elephant in the room. The heat sink. From all my testing I have found out that… It has the same cooling power as the basic rad. Now in real life a heat sink will cool down coolant like a radiator but it maximizes surface area so i have a theory. When moving it will cool down better? Maybe. I don't know. I have to rerun some of my cooling tests anyway so I'll test that out.

Exchangers

Now exchangers and either make or break a creation. They can either be super helpful or just not work at all. So let's go over the three types.

L-L / LL
L-A / LA
A-A / AA

Ok so the way an exchanger works is by averaging the heat between the two. So if your coolant is 30c and your seawater is 10c it will be 20c but it depends on size as well. So a small L-L will do maybe 25c while a large L-L will do 20c. Now the L-A or A-A haven't worked much for me but the L-L has done wonders for one of my small steam boats. I think it's because the air is around 20c and the ocean might be 10c or something. Just a thought.

“Advanced cooling”

Now when I mean advanced cooling I mean more then just adding a rad and calling it a day. These will be using both exchangers and rads while showing some interesting ways to cool an engine.

Now for prefab engines you can just add a 3x3E rad and it will run well at 20 rps with a decent bit of load but for mod engines you have to get a bit more creative. Here is a video that goes over it. https://youtu.be/cZ5-D4__tZE. But if you don't want to watch the video, here is a text example.

Rad out - > pump -> manifold A
Manifold B -> pump -> rad in

Now something i was thinking that i never tested was using the L-L and rads in the same cooling system. Now I have thought of two ways and here they are.

Ok so these in theory should take in advantage of the fact that L-L exchangers will average the heat of two fluids. Ok first one is.

Sea water -> rad in
Rad out -> L-L B in
L-L B out -> sea

Manifold B -> L-L A in
A-L-L A out -> rad in
Rad out -> manifold A

So in theory this makes enough difference between the two fluids that it will actually be useful. Now the second way is to use rads when there is no sea water.

L-L B out -> rad in
Rad out - L-L B in

Manifold B -> L-L A in
A-L-L A out -> rad in
Rad out -> manifold A

Now keep in mind you also want pumps where the -> are.

Ok now lets go over some things to know about cooling

1 - always have as close to 60 lps as possible. If you have past 60 lps then keep it. More flow rate the better
2 - 5x5 rad is 2.5x better then 3x3
3 - more load, rps, and air temp are factors for cooling.

Here is the full list from the first cooling guide.

- Higher flow rate = better cooling.
- The lower your rps the better time your cooling will have.
- A 5x5 Erad is 2.5x better then a 3x3 Erad.
- A basic rad can do 20 rps with no load, a 3x3 Erad can do 32 rps with no load and a 5x5 can do 36
- rps with no load.
- The higher the load your engine has the more heat it will produce. This is why people use medium and
- large gens for their cooling test sense they give the highest load. Oh and gears add load as well.
- You need pumps for mod engine cooling manifolds.
- Exchangers like L-L do need pumps.
- Rads already come with their own coolant.

temps engines overheat at

- Mod and prefab overheat at 115 and explode at 120 so keep it 100 or below.
- Jets don't overheat. They just explode at 200 rps.
- Fireboxes don't overheat, same way with motors.
- Reactors meltdown at 1,500

nope nope nope. im not rewriting all of this again. have fun

The transmission is how I do what I do. From a mach 0.6 steamer to a tank that flys. Alright so you may notice that your engine stalls or your “fast” boat is still slow or just not making enough power for your creations. Well lets go over how i do transmissions and how to set up gear and all the fun.

Ok lets go over clutches, gears and load on the engine. Clutch, clutch is like a variable valve but for transmission. Give it a number and it will start to engage. From 0.6-1 is what you want depending on your creations. Now setting your clutch lower will make the load on the engine lower which means you can have more rps on whatever you're trying to do but will also lose rps the lower you go.

Next is gear. How gears work is there is a off ratio and a on ratio. When the gear box is not receiving an on/off input it will stay at your off input and when it does receive one it will switch to that next ratio. Now the way your gearbox is facing also has an impact on the gear.

Toward engine is more rps, more load, less torque
Away from engine is less rps, less load, more torque
Engine -> gear[<] more rps
Engine -> gear[>] more torque

1:1 is 10 rps [>] 10 rps
1:-1 is 10 rps [>] -10 rps

1:2 is 10 rps [>] 5rps
2:1 is 10 rps [<] 20rps

Oh and there is no difference between 1x1, 3x3 and 5x5 gears besides just looks.

Something else you can add to your transmission are flywheels. What flywheels do is slow down the engine and add torque. To add to a non-mod engine is clutch > flywheels > clutch. Mod clutches so basically 3x3 clutch > flywheels > 3x3 clutch and same for 1x1 and 5x5.

So let me go into detail of a flywheel. A flywheel is a very heavy weight on the engine. To make it harder to start up but once the engine turns over it's hard to stop. It also adds torque to the engine and if there is a use shift in load the flywheel will keep the engine at more or less the same rps.

Flywheel = kinetic battery

Next is gens. What a gen does is when you give it rps it will generate power. Turbines, alts, and solar panels also generate power but a gen does it best. They will also add load to an engine so just be aware of that. The small get is what i usually use on my creations but if i want more power i'll use a medium to large gen. My trucks and aircraft use small gens, my larger trucks and boats use medium gens and my freight train uses large. I do this because my trucks and aircraft only need to charge their systems. My larger trucks and boats need to charge their systems and the vehicle is towing or charging and my train needs to power everything behind it.

Alts also remove torque from the engine oh and there like 15x less effective then a small gen.

Ok so you keep hearing me say load on the engine and what is that. Well load is load on the engine. With a much smaller load your engine doesn't need that much fuel while at a high load your engine may A: stall or B: use a lot of fuel and make a lot of heat. So how do you measure load. Well sadly you don't or i just don't know yet. But keep in mind that more load on engines = more heat and fuel usage and with mod engines a huge shift in load will make the rps sky rocket. Ways you can decrease load is by adding gear for more torque. Engine -> gear[>]

ok so i found out something. wheels have a constant load like gens. I'll be honest. i thought wheels would act like irl wheels where they can keep on spinning if they are off the ground but this is SW so i don't know why i thought that. thanks to lazy cat for letting me know. See, even with 4k hours I'm still learning.

Simple stuff you can do with your transmissions is have all your engines hooked up together with the same pipe and keeping all your gears in one line. Another thing you can do is add a torque sensor. rps*torque=power (in stormmworks) and (rpm*torque)/5252 = horsepower but since torque is broken this doesn't really work. You can try (rpm*(torque*0.7376))/5252 which will convert Newton meters to foot pounds. Personally my favorite is (rpm*torque)/100 and this is what i'm going to be using.

ok just ignore all of that because the real equation of HP is (x*10)*1.34102209 and x is the torque meter. Now x*10 will convert it to kw so you can convert it after that.

So let's go into detail on torque in sw. Torque is the torque of the entire system until gears, clutches and flywheels are added. It's more or less a useless number but for towing it's a good number to look at. When towing a large vehicle you want a lot of torque. Not only is your engine going to run easier but hopefully you won't have wheel slip. Torque is good for cars, boats, trains and that's about it. Yes you can have more rps but that will add load to the engine. Aircraft like planes and helis need rps because they need to actually fly and hold there alt.

Now something else you can add to your transmission is a motor. When your starter is on you can also have a motor on your transmission to help your engine start. I usually do this on my jets so I can fire them up faster. Basically you set it up like this. Engine -> motor -> clutch.

Ok let's go over how rps pipes and fluid pipes work. Since rps and fluid are different you can actually use a cross pipe to transport fluid and rps through the same pipe and it's very helpful.

Alright, I know that was a lot of info to read and you probably didn't read all of it, so i'll be going over how I do transmissions. This is how I do transmissions.

Car trans
Engine -> gen -> gear[>] -> gear[<] -> gear[<] -> gear[<] -> gear[<] -> [clutch] -> wheels

I usually do this for my ground vehicles like cars. The way it works is by having the engine run a gen then have gear but when you actually shift to first gear (clutch) then what you set your gears to will activate. The way I do the gear is a bit weird because of the clutch but I could explain. There's always going to be 1st, 0 and a - on the panel. Let's say we have a 5 speed trans. This is what that might look like.

R[>] 2[>] 3[<] 4[<[ 5[<] 1[clutch]

1st “gear” is always going to be the clutch. This is how you get the car moving
2nd is the first gear. Usually set to off of 1:2 and a on of 1:1. This is usually direct engine power to the wheels or tracks
3rd-5th is going to be more rps and less torque. Good for drag racing

The 0 is always neutral. Someday i might change it to a N
The - is always the reverse. Someday i'll make it a R

My gears are usually a nice mix of auto and manual transmissions.

- - - - - - - - - - - -

Train trans
Engine -> gear [>] gear[<] -> [clutch] -> wheels

Since the train needs to go forward as fast as backwards I use a separate gearbox but that's not needed. The other gear is usually set to 2:1 and the engine rps is usually at 10. This makes sure the max rps the wheels can be at is 20 which can also be too high some times.

- - - - - - - - - - - -

Boat trans
Engine -> gear[<] -> [clutch] -> prop

For ships the transmission is usually tiny. All i really need is 1 gear set to off 2:1 and a on of 1:-1. Since my ships need speed over torque, I don't need much rps on the engine.

- - - - - - - - - - - -

Now we are entering the realm of weird transmissions. Stuff I really can't talk about. Even my boat and train transmission dont look like that. There's always gens, gears and clutches in the system that would just be confusing to read. My aircraft transmissions are even more confusing due to the way I set them up but you have seen how I set my car one up so you should have a better understanding of gear… maybe. That's saying your brain ain't dead yet.

Something i forgot to add in is CVT. A CVT or constantly variable transmission is a transmission with gears that you can change on the fly. A cvt is basically two clutches hooked together. One clutch leads to a gearbox set for torque and the other is a gear that is set for rps. Now a problem with this is that this doesn't work because your transmission will lock up but there is a work around. Modular clutch -> crank -> Modular clutch. This is how people make one way rps pipes… ish. There are a few downsides.

A: your engine has no load on it anymore but it also does as well
B: you lose like 4 rps from it
C: it doesn't always work.

Ok so let me go over how they really work. Basically you need to engage one side at 0 and one at 1 on 0 throttle (i'm saying 0 throttle sense i don't know how you have your trans hookup) and when at full throttle aka 1 you have the sides flipped. So the side you want to default to be engaged is the low gear aka [>] and the side you want to engage at full throttle be [<]. Easy. just look at the link.

Link to a cvt: https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2560418439

Ok so you know how i said one way rps pipe ish. Well there's a reason why I said that. When you have a clutch like this clutch > crank > clutch you end up making the game act.. Weird. This is how you end up making cars have way too much power but your engine will not be faster. Don't ask me what I'm saying, I didnt code the game. Ok, so on a normal CVT (using the normal clutches) your engine will stall. Now when I mean stall I mean it will lock up. Now why does it work with a mod clutch? I'll be honest. I have no clue. It acts like a one way pipe but it also doesn't. Ok i have a theory.

So my theory is that fact your running it through a crankshaft. So if the rps hits one clutch first instead of the other then it will only let rps go that way.. Maybe. Just an idea and most likely should test it.

Yeah this is why i don't want to talk about CVT so let's move on to combine gears… much more fun.

Ok so the idea behind combining gears is having 4 gears and turning it into a 7 speed trans or something like that. So the way to do it is confusing to say the least. So you need to reuse gears over and over again. So at first you may have 1 gear used. In a second you may have 3 uses. in third, you may have 2 gears used and in fourth you may have 5 gears being used. Ect ect. Yes. I know what I just wrote. Now I'll be honest again. No clue how these work nor really care how they work. You could probably find some pages on them and if you do come back I can put it on here so people can easily find it.

ok so i said in the description? i think thats what its called. i said it was a WIP (work in progress) that means im still working on it. i just needed to get this out there because the first one was just not good. it got the point across but not well.

also the guide is more or less done it just doesn't feel done so thats why i marked it as WIP. i still feel like im missing something and the people reading it will tell me what that is

if you still want to read the first one you can find it here. i dont know why you want to read it but ok.
https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2733574790

thats to bungslist for help on the first guide.

if you find any problems with the guide or anything thats confusing PLEASE TELL ME. i have no clue how many times i have to say it. if theres a problem. just tell me and ill fix it unless its grammar wise which you just have to deal with it.

Will add someday : images on different engine layouts