can you make supra with that active aero bcs supra had active aero as option

@Twebe Bebe

Thank you for the praise! I still hope after holidays die down (extremely busy at work) I can find the time and will to create an up-to-date version with the modular engine setup that mimics the real engine even more accurately... although space restrictions make a Twin-Turbocharged AND Twin-Intercooled V6 a considerable challenge to stuff under the hood effectively.

@DylShock

I actually modified the seat system and it works well. I still love the car especially with the opening hatch and rear glass.

@Twebe Bebe

The primary purpose of those specific motors was to achieve the correct angle of the rear seatbacks, but I honestly forgot to consider a button to manipulate them forward. Thanks for bringing it up, I'll have to look into adding that the next time I'm able to update the car!

I see there are motors that fold down the rear seats, but no button that folds them down?

@Dramatic

RESPONSE PART 3

So all of the VCU functionality that's currently present was simulated via the rear axle. Rear axle clutch is rapidly reduced from 1.00 to .92 when the E-Brake (hotkey 1) is pressed. This means that 'pumping' the E-Brake (as one would do in controlled cornering/drifting scenarios) will also slightly 'pump' the clutch for the rear axle alongside variable braking to the rear wheels.
The slight controlled slippage of the clutch on the rear axle can be used by the pilot to help the rear end of the vehicle slide out into a turn more easily, also allowing the front axle to become more dominant for pulling the car into the turn. Release of the E-Brake simulates restoring full clutch bite. Proper usage of this feature helps with pilot control during corners and with restoring stable traction when exiting a corner.

@Dramatic

RESPONSE PART 2

The logic I have in place for the front axle was tested in a lot of scenarios, but with limited ability for the system to sense traction loss and activate it, all other triggers for reducing power to it in any circumstance only served to weaken the ability of the front steering to pull the car in the desired direction or reduced top speed. So it has been left as-is for the time being until it might be better utilized with future Stormworks updates.

@Dramatic

RESPONSE PART 1

So first of all: Thanks for pointing out a mistake left in the car's programming! The value in the logic was intended to be left as 1.00 for now, but was accidentally left as 100.

Secondly, I'm sure this then begs the question: Why have such logic that will essentially make no change to the normal value? The answer to that lies in Stormworks' limitations.
In order to replicate the full function as Mitsubishi's original VCU, Stormworks would need to allow it's vehicle wheels to operate with differentials and for tire slip to be detectable. This way, sudden loss of traction on individual axles could trigger shifts in power output between them to restore stability as it does in real life.

Nice car! I have a small question, the VCU (viscous coupling unit) in your creation is achieve by the two clutches connected to the front and rear axle right? I noticed that most of the time the clutch pressure is 1, but when speed is higher than 65 the front axle has a clutch pressure of 100, but the clutch only accepts value between 0 and 1? Little confused on this part, can you please explain it?

@bnmlucky
The height of suspension blocks cannot be dynamically adjusted in-game without manual editing in the workbench. This car only simulates the automatic adjustment of firmness/softness depending upon it's current driving environment (speed, turning angle, torque, etc.)

how do i change the suspension height?

can you make some more vehicles?

@Harris Kids

The parking brake lever is located just to the right of the driver's leg on the floor, against the center console.

how do you turn parking brake off

beautiful

Also the steering on this hitches when its facing dead ahead, which makes it difficult to course correct.

And by that, I mean, push it too much, and it catches fire. The manual shifting doesnt help either.

This is one of the best fire engines ive ever seen, but it needs a little bit of work, it doesnt like climbing hills.

https://steamhost.cn/steamcommunity_com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2233110558&searchtext=TFL+3000

Can you help out a Person with his Gearbox system on his fire engine? And maybe his Displays?

@Weapons ExpertYT
Thank you, my friend!

@johnmorgan70
The controls are all plainly visible while in the driver's seat. Drives just like any classic manual sports car.
Just make sure the parking break is disengaged, start the engine, shift into gear (made it so you don't actually NEED to use the clutch as long as you give it some throttle) and go.

uhh how does it work

looking forward to some more

cool car man

Javitu
#2770 feel free ot add me to join the harrisson rally course

@Gino Odjick
I've actually been contemplating this. I'll sadly have to reel in the horsepower a bit, because the additional suspension needed to make it a real rally car will cause it to lose stability at higher speeds, but I'll come up with something nice ;)

@Aljon
I know the current window setup is not ideal. But seeing as this is my real life car, I have specific fixations on the accuracy of certain aspects. The rear glass has a pronounced curvature that is completely defeated by the flatness of any XML edit I've attempted. Feel free to edit and save your own personal copy of it with such additions.

will you do xml windows, the blocky windows look weird. it has xml modded blocks so i dont see any reason not to use xml windows

@Bluejammer
The power train is constantly being refined and tuned. The original cap was even lower before hand, also since the devs addressed engine overheating issues (they used to burst into flames at 80C after a certain update) things could be re-tuned. Due to this, I've always left the tach at a fixed expanded state to allow for further power increases without constantly modifying the tach's limits. It keeps the engine's resting idle point visually consistent as well, instead of appearing to changing with each power increase.

Why does the tachometer go up to 2500RPM when the engine is limited at 840?

@YoJo715
Yeah, this build puts authenticity as paramount. That being said, a traditional panic alarm (if left going off) will absolutely drain your battery. But fortunately this one can go off for quite a long time before there's any danger of the car not starting/needing a jump.

Thanks for the feedback, friend!

I love the anti-theft system, though it appears to drain the battery somewhat.

@jespo350
That's exactly what I thought when I first saw and decided I had to get one! ... Haha, but honestly, thanks friend!

I SMELL POPUPS (this thing hot)

@Unkowian
I have absolutely no issues with stability in the current build reaching 210kmph. Minor adjustments are still fine and hard turning puts the car sideways with ease, as it should if you try cornering at that speed. Of course cornering at those speeds turns into drifting as well, which it should, and is easily controllable for me. All around tires don't perform nearly as well when drifting. All it takes is a few blips from the brakes or a short downshift to regain traction.

All-in-all, it performs the way I'd expect a performance car to and how the real car does. I'm having a hard time seeing how more steering power would be needed with how fast it whips itself around as it is. But maybe I'm missing something.

You can reach 210km/h with all around wheels, model will be a bit worse, but you will have more stability and steer power.

@Unkowian
I'd be interested to know what steering characteristics you'd prefer, as the stock characteristics for steering are painfully slow to respond or return to center.

My issues with stock steering are...
1. At high speeds, minor steering corrections are nearly impossible. The slightest taps of A/D make turns that take far too long to return to center, resulting in the car constantly over correcting when trying to do something as simple as stay in a lane or straight line.

2. Attempts to hasten the steering's return to center simply snap the wheels back to center instantly, throwing off otherwise smooth turns and disrupting handling. This is also an issue with people who make steering that just snaps from 0 - 100 instantly.

The goal here was to make steering with simple A/D keys that's subtle and smooth to eliminate jerky motions while also being quick and responsive for both minor adjustments and quick maneuvering.

Very bad steering, u should not touch wheels specs.

@DriveLive
I'm glad to hear people are still enjoying it! I'm hoping to release an update for it soon!

This is an amazing creation! I put 32 miles on this thing

Next make a 1988 GMC Sierra K1500 SLE pickup truck

this is sick af mam

Bro, you've absolutely KILLED it with this! Congrats, my brother-man! haha :)

Thanks

Thanks ;)

@Mixa
xml edited blocks

how u make 2x1 wedge? cheat engine?

@Doge
... You do know the direction that parking brakes engage and disengage in real cars, right? Pulling it back towards you locks it, pushing it down forward unlocks it. You'll see the Parking Brake indicator light on the dashboard go out once you've released it all the way forward.

i cant get the parking break off help!

I really appreciate the feedback from everyone!
@Aljon I used pre-edited xml blocks for this vehicle. But the larger wheels were essential here to match the size/scale of the rest of the vehicle anyways